Understanding the Science Behind Hair Pigmentation Change
Going gray is a common experience for most people, and it occurs due to changes in melanocytes, the cells responsible for both hair and skin color. When these cells stop producing melanin, the hair loses its color, resulting in a mix of pigmented and white strands. This transformation primarily happens during the anagen stage, the active growth phase within the follicular unit. Recent studies suggest that between 6% to 23% of people of all races have a 50% gray hair ratio by the time they reach 50 years of age.
What Causes Hair Pigmentation Changes?
Several factors contribute to gray hair. Genetics plays a significant role, but environmental influences, such as exposure to heavy metals, smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, and physical illness, can also impact hair color. Stress and hormonal imbalances are common culprits for both men and women.
Once the graying process begins, it’s challenging to reverse. Scientific research indicates that intense stress for prolonged periods can prematurely damage melanocytes at the dermal-epidermal junction, affecting hair growth. This is particularly significant as the anagen stage is when pigmentation is formed in the hair shaft.
Can Gray Hair Be Reversed?
As a trichologist, I am passionate about staying informed about the latest research and findings in the field. Whether to inform my practice, incorporate new treatments for my clients, or assist in the advancement of the science of hair and scalp, I couldn’t help but wonder: Even though reversing the graying process can be challenging, could it be possible?
According to Professor Desmond Tobin, “There is some emerging evidence that the hair follicle pigmentary unit may have regenerative potential, even after it has begun to produce white hair fibers. It may therefore be feasible to develop strategies to modulate some aging-associated changes to maintain melanin production for longer.”
Delving into the mysteries of our hair color transformation from gray to pigmented, here’s a fun fact: our hair seems to hold onto memories of months and years past.
The process of hair growth unfolds within the hair follicles, fueled by the mitochondria. It’s a complex journey where our hair cells receive signals from the body, including stress hormones. These signals may alter the proteins and compounds being deposited in the emerging hair shaft. As our hair hardens and emerges, these molecules remain in a stable condition, leaving traces in the form of pigmentation patterns. This pigment resurgence occurs exclusively during the hair growth phase.
Interestingly enough, published research suggests that spontaneous interruptions and restarts of melanin production along the hair shaft are exceptionally rare. However, exceptions do exist, as one of my clients vividly demonstrated.
Regenerating Hair Pigmentation: A Case Study
In August 2021, Sara sought my assistance when she was 36 years old and had been experiencing hair shedding since the start of 2020. Her blood tests revealed low vitamin B12 and high folate deficiency, as well as vitamin D levels as low as 20 ng/ml. Her ferritin level was at 48, and she reported low energy levels. Sara mentioned that she had drastic diet changes. She was distressed as her hair had been falling out in significant amounts. Upon evaluation, she was diagnosed with loose anagen syndrome, telogen effluvium, and mild psoriasis located behind her left ear.
Her treatment plan consisted of several components. I advised her to take 2000 IU of vitamin D daily and incorporate a B-complex supplement into her daily routine. To address potential iron deficiency, her diet was adjusted to include more iron-rich foods. Additionally, a spirulina vitamin was recommended to help counteract B12 depletion. For mild psoriasis, it was suggested that she use a 3% coal tar and 3% salicylic acid treatment four times a week. In her efforts to combat hair loss, I advised her to apply a topical minoxidil 5% solution twice a day.
Educating Sara about the importance of maintaining a clean and healthy scalp through regular shampooing was a challenging task. Dealing with extreme hair loss and the added complexity of her hair turning gray made even basic routines like shampooing seem overwhelming. In my efforts to guide her, I took a gentle approach, providing numerous examples of the advantages of maintaining a clean scalp and hair. I emphasized that with proper care, she could minimize hair loss. I also explained to her the connection between stress and the premature shift of the hair growth cycle into the telogen stage, often referred to as the falling out stage.
We’re facing three key issues: stress, hormones, and diet. The visuals and images reveal varying stopping and starting of hair pigment along the hair shaft. Using my dermascope, I’ve captured different stages of the hair growth phases and further demonstrated these pigmentation irregularities. In my professional assessment, Sara appears to be struggling with imbalances in all three areas: stress, hormones, and diet.
Fast forward to two years, and Sara shared her recent hair images. She’s made substantial lifestyle changes, notably reducing stress and adopting a nourishing diet with essential vitamins and amino acids. Her hormone levels are now within normal range, resulting in a remarkable transformation from gray hair to pigmented strands.
How incredible is that?!
Advice About Graying Hair From a Certified Trichologist
Sara’s case serves as a compelling example, demonstrating that by acknowledging the impact of stress, hormones, and diet on the graying process, we can equip ourselves with the knowledge to take proactive measures.
In the early stages, intervention involves steering clear of detrimental environmental influences and making well-informed choices regarding products, nutrition, and stress management techniques. These steps are essential for preserving the vibrancy of your natural hair color and overall hair quality.
It’s crucial not to underestimate the potential of dietary enhancements, vitamin supplementation, and maintaining hormonal balances. If you’re feeling skeptical about whether these actions will make a difference, take solace in Sara’s transformation. Her journey is a testament to the positive impact these changes can have.
The idea that your hair holds memories highlights the importance of taking care of your hair at all stages. Ensure your hair is well-nourished and protected, especially during the active growth phase. This might not only slow down graying but also contribute to the overall health and vitality of your hair.
And please, do not pick out your gray hairs. Doing so can cause damage to the hair follicle and lead to hair loss.
Can a Trichologist Help with Graying Hair?
As a board-certified trichologist, IAT, MIT, I am trained to perform thorough assessments of an individual’s hair and scalp. This includes examining factors like hair color, texture, and overall condition to determine the extent of pigmentation changes and identify potential underlying causes. Whether it's related to genetics, environmental factors, stress, hormones, or nutritional deficiencies, I can help you pinpoint specific aspects that might be contributing to your issues.
Once we identify the causes, we will work together to develop a personalized treatment plan that will help the changes you want to see. I know dealing with hair graying can be emotionally tough. I will always do my best to provide you with support to cope with these changes.
Above all, I will always be honest. I believe in compassion and a truthful diagnosis that does not sugarcoat your issues. Not all hair and scalp conditions can be cured or reversed, but there are ways to manage your conditions and prolong your hair and scalp quality. I don’t practice false hope, I practice giving fact-based diagnoses based on my expertise.
Feel free to book an in-person hair and scalp analysis at my center in New York City or a virtual consultation with me.