Waves, Curls, and Coils: Understanding Curly Hair Types from a Trichologist
As a trichologist, I believe understanding hair types forms the foundation for comprehensive hair care and optimal scalp health. Hair types provide invaluable insights into your genetic predispositions, which play a vital role in determining various aspects of hair health, behavior, and maintenance.
I’ve found that clients who have wavy, curly, or coily hair experience more hair and scalp challenges due to specific hair requirements and curl complexities. From loose waves to tight coils, the more pronounced the curl, the more complex the hair structure.
Wavy, curly, and coily hair is more diverse and representative of a broader range of ethnicities and cultural backgrounds. Yet, emphasis on proper education and hair care techniques for these hair types is still underserved. They have distinct characteristics and care requirements that differ significantly from straight hair.
The shape of the hair follicle and the angle at which the hair shaft emerges from the scalp are largely influenced by your genetics. In addition to hair follicle shape, other factors such as the distribution of proteins and pigments in the hair shaft also contribute to its appearance and texture.
And that’s why we’re addressing scientific nuances, proper care routines, and techniques for maintaining healthy, curly, coily hair.
Understanding Your Curly Hair Type
Your hair care routine is a reflection of your hair type. As a trichologist, it’s my mission to provide valuable insight that can help you care for your hair’s natural texture and patterns in the best way possible. The direction of hair growth and the natural curl pattern can influence how the hair reacts to products, styling techniques, and environmental factors.
Understanding the specific needs of curly hair types, including moisture retention, protective styling, and brushing methods, can help you embrace and showcase the beauty of your hair’s natural texture.
The hair typing system used in the hair and scalp industry was founded by Andre Walker, a prominent hair stylist and entrepreneur well-known for his contributions to the haircare world. Determining hair type is based on observing the hair’s natural curl pattern (the curvature of the hair and the number of twists and waves along the hair shaft), the texture, and the thickness of the hair strands.
Though we’ll be focusing on types 2-4, note that type 1 hair is defined as straight hair. Straight hair types have round hair follicles. The hair shaft grows directly out of the scalp in a straight line, resulting in hair that doesn’t exhibit a significant curl or wave pattern.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Wavy hair types have slightly oval-shaped hair follicles. The hair shaft emerges from the scalp at an angle, which leads to the formation of gentle waves along its length. It tends to have a looser curl pattern than curly or coily hair types.
This hair type can range from subtle waves to more defined and prominent “S” patterns. It often falls somewhere between straight and curly hair, combining elements of both.
The three subcategories of Type 2 hair include:
2A: Loose and tousled waves with a gentle “S” pattern
2B: More defined waves that form a noticeable “S” shape
2C: Waves with a distinct “S” pattern, often closer to curls
Common Scalp and Hair Issues for Type 2 Wavy Hair
Wavy hair types are susceptible to frizz, particularly in humid conditions. The uneven texture of wavy hair can lead to flyaways and increased frizziness. Maintaining the “S” shape can be a challenge, as the waves become looser or straighter over time. Scalp oils may not travel down the hair shaft as effectively as with straight hair, potentially leading to dry ends and an oily scalp.
Recommended Hair Care for Type 2 Wavy Hair
Wash your hair every 2-4 days to prevent excessive dryness while maintaining natural oils. Avoid rubbing the hair vigorously with a towel. Instead, gently scrunch it to encourage wave formation. Opt for a sulfate-free, hydrating shampoo and conditioner to maintain moisture without stripping the natural oils. Use lightweight styling products that will not weigh the hair down. Anti-frizz serums can help manage frizziness.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Curly hair types have more elliptical or oblong-shape hair follicles. The hair shaft emerges from the scalp at a sharp angle, causing it to curve and form distinct curls or spirals. Type 3 curly hair is characterized by well-defined curls that form spiral or ringlet patterns. This hair type has a more pronounced curl pattern compared to wavy hair and falls within the curly spectrum.
Type 3 hair can range from loose girls to tightly coiled curls that are more prominent toward the end, creating a layered appearance. It can vary in density, too, with some people having finer hair and others having thicker strands.
The three subcategories of Type 3 hair include:
3A: Large, loose curls resembling a stretched-out “S” pattern
3B: Springy, tighter curls that may form ringlets
3C: Tight, corkscrew-like curls that may vary in size
Common Scalp and Hair Issues for Type 3 Curly Hair
Curly hair types are prone to dryness due to the natural oils having difficulty traveling down the twists and turns of the hair shaft. Frizz is also a common concern, as the uneven surface of curly hair strands can lead to flyaways. Due to the curl pattern, curly hair is more prone to tangling and forming knots, which can lead to breakage if not handled carefully.
Recommended Hair Care for Type 3 Curly Hair
Wash your hair every 2-3 days to maintain curl definition and moisture. Consider regular deep conditioning treatments to combat dryness and maintain the elasticity of the hair. When it comes to detangling, use a wide-tooth comb and fingers to gently detangle the hair (preferably while coated with conditioner). Opt for curl-enhancing gels and creams and use sulfate-free shampoos to cleanse without stripping natural oils.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair
Type 4 coily hair is also known as kinky hair, characterized by tightly coiled and zigzag-shaped curls. This hair type has the tightest curl pattern and often appears as a series of small, densely packed coils. Type 4 hair is known for its rich texture and versatility. It can range from soft and fine to coarse and wiry. Many people have different curl styles within the same head, known as “shrinkage.”
Winnie Awa, the founder and CEO of Carra, has a background addressing the challenges and gaps in the hair care industry, especially those with curly, coily, and kinky hair types. According to her research, Type 4 hair types are the leading consumers in the haircare conversation, with types 4A & 4B being the most common curl types. She mentions that people with type 4 hair struggle with hair loss 45% more than those with type 2. She believes that action needs to be taken by leading hair care brands to create culturally relevant products.
The three subcategories of Type 4 hair include:
4A: Tightly coiled curls that have a defined “S” pattern
4B: Z-shaped curls with less defined patterns and more shrinkage
4C: Highly coiled and densely packed curls, often forming a “Z” or zigzag pattern
Common Scalp and Hair Issues for Type 4 Coily Hair
Type 4 coily hair is prone to dryness due to natural oils struggling to travel along the tight coils. When studied, coil curl type has shown that the scales on the cuticle are smaller due to the width of the hair shaft. This means coily hair is more prone to dryness. The tight, compact cuticle makes it harder for the natural oils to travel along the tight coils.
This can cause brittleness and breakage to the hair. Coil hairs can also experience significant shrinkage, appearing shorter than it is when it’s stretched out. Due to the tightly coiled structure, coily hair is more prone to breakage, particularly if not handled gently. The tight coils can easily interlock and tangle, leading to knots and matting.
People with type 4 hair are at risk of traction alopecia due to braids, hair pieces, and tight hairstyles. This hair type is also prone to more inflammation and higher levels of sebum on the scalp.
Recommended Hair Care for Type 4 Coily Hair
Limit hair washing to once a week to avoid overstripping necessary oils and use a high-quality sulfate-free shampoo. Be sure to deep condition or apply a hydrating cream to your hair shaft, not the roots. If your scalp is oily and itchy, try a medicated shampoo with coal tar and 3% salicylic acid. Massage it well into the scalp, letting it sit for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
People with type 4 hair might also enjoy reading The Koyld Hair Guide: A Joy Filled Guide to Fulfilling Your Koily Hair Dreams by Ayinoluwa Abegunde. The book discusses the history of Afro-hair in the U.S. with science-backed advice for caring for your hair.
In case you’re looking for hair care product recommendations, I advise you to try Viviscal, Oribe, or Uzima. You could also schedule one of my trichology treatments created by a chemist to help with your hair and scalp care.
Men and women with curly hair might not realize how dandruff, itchiness, or inflammation might be affecting their hair health. I want to offer you strategies to improve scalp health to promote an optimal environment for hair growth. If you’re experiencing hair thinning and loss, I can help you identify the potential causes to recommend holistic treatments and interventions. As a trichologist, I have scalp products made by a chemist that is helpful to soothe itching, swelling, and scaling on the scalp.
If you want to learn more about your hair type and how to properly care for it, reach out to me. I am now scheduling in-person consultations. I understand the social and emotional impact of scalp conditions and hair loss.
I want to know:
What impact is your scalp condition or hair loss having on your life?
How often do you think about your hair? Or your scalp? Every day? All the time?
Have you changed your lifestyle because of your hair and scalp?
Have you stopped doing anything? Because of your scalp and hair?
No matter where your hair type is on the curl pattern scale, your hair and scalp are important.